A little rice cake came with anchovies, coconuts, peanuts and coriander, which was unusual but worked nicely. Smoked duck was served on a spoon with plums and chestnuts, which worked nicely with the deeply flavoured meat. I enjoyed little Parmesan sable biscuits coated with almonds, which were delicate and had plenty of cheese flavour.
Sketch london series#
You can Google them if you want to see endless slightly fetishist photos of bathrooms. Our meal began with a series of canapes. The bathrooms at Sketch are famously ornate in décor – “understated” is not really a theme here. There is also a small private room available to one side. The Sketch Lecture Room and Library has two sections in the dining room, both extravagantly appointed. One relative bargain on the list, which we drank, was the superb Arnaud Ente Bourgogne Chardonnay 2014 at £155 compared to its retail price of £205, a notionally basic Burgundy wine that possesses gorgeous acidity and minerality. At the prestige end of the list, Didier Dagueneau Blanc Fumé de Pouilly Silex 2015 was £344 compared to its retail price of £121, and Chateau Haut-Brion La Mission was £614 for a wine that has a current market value of £286. Examples were Boutinot Percheron Old Vine Cinsault 2014 at £29 for a bottle that you can find in the high street for £9, En Besset Domaine de Fa 2016 at £71 compared to its retail price of £14, and Churton Best End Sauvignon Blanc 2015 at £92 for a label that will set you back £34 in a shop.
The wine list was vast, stretching over 150 pages, ranging in price from £29 to £19.500. Hence a dish featuring, say, langoustine, will arrive as five separate miniature dishes on the theme of langoustine. As with Pierre Gagnaire’s main restaurant, dishes tend to be multiple riffs on a single ingredient. A seven-course tasting menu was priced at £120, and a vegetarian version was £95. Prior to that he was head chef of Pierre Gagnaire’s restaurant in Moscow, and before that worked at the mothership in Paris. While Pierre Gagnaire is executive chef of Sketch, these days he has a global restaurant empire to run, and the head chef here since 2013 has been Johannes Nuding. Sketch gained a Michelin star in 2005, a second in 2013 and a third in 2020. He now has a group of restaurants around the world, such as in Seoul. He reopened in Rue de Balzac in Paris, which proved an easier location to showcase his talents, regaining his three stars within two years of moving location. He first gained three stars in the French countryside in St Etienne in 1992 before his restaurant went bankrupt in 1996. It opened in 2003, owned by Mourad Mazouz with part ownership by renowned French chef Pierre Gagnaire, whose flagship restaurant in Paris has held three Michelin stars since 1998. Sketch in Mayfair occupies a large building that houses a ground floor casual restaurant as well as a bar and the upstairs flagship restaurant, which is called the Lecture Room and Library.
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